Does the See-Now-Buy-Now initiative affect you?
Not really. I haven’t noticed a change in terms of requesting for clients.
From a consumer standpoint though, I think it’s a great thing that needed to happen. We live in an instant world with everything at the click of a button, which made waiting months archaic. The industry needed to keep up with that.
What’s your ideal calendar?
One with more time!
All the brands are kind of doing their own thing with the calendar right now. How does that affect magazines and stylists?
I think it's annoying. It's better when people show less. I think it's annoying, for example, Tom Ford didn't show his fall collection and isn't going to show his fall collection until it's literally in stores.
Yeah, so what happens then?
Even we don't know. People that work with the collection don't know anything about it until it's ready and I have opposing views on that. I think one it's frustrating because you want to know and you want to see what's next. On the other hand, it’s also genius because you don't know what's next and we won't know until maybe it's too late. I think it's interesting the way he handled that and I think it's a good idea and I think more people should do stuff like that. With Celine, they never released their lookbooks until the clothes were shoppable, which I think is also really great.
But they had a preview for stylists right?
Yeah, exactly. Press gets the lookbooks in advance and there's always like an embargo stating that you can't show these images to anyone besides people that you work with. I think that's great because a lot of times people just copy each other and everything gets really diluted because there's always five designers that show the best collection and everyone copies it.
I think less is more and that people are starting to get that idea but I think right now we're still in the middle of people not knowing what the voice of fashion is.
So I guess now bi-annual magazines have a strong advantage because they’re on a less strict timetable for pulling clothes?
I think the advantage that bi-annual magazines have is that we have a lot more time to digest and really explore people's ideas in terms of their fashion collections. But specifically in regards to Tom Ford's collection, I don't think anyone's going to shoot it because even press isn't able to pull anything. It's kind of like a, "Fuck you" to everybody. "I'm not going to let you shoot anything. This is my label. I'm going to do what I want."
Where do you think magazines are headed?
I mean that’s definitely hard, but I think digital is becoming more and more prominent. I would say the emergence of tech in fashion is the way of the future. And this past fashion week with all the see-now- buy-now collections, that’s definitely where it’s going. “I see it now, I want to have it now,” like that kind of mindset is becoming so important. I mean with Instagram you can see it right away. Everything is being force-fed to you and in fashion in particular; you can feel like you'e right there. I think accessibility and high demand has a big impact on the industry.
I am really excited to see a little bit of rebellion from the designers, especially Raf Simons leaving Dior. I think that was a big step for designers because the pressure of the industry to produce and to produce is insane. There is going to be a tipping point very soon and I hope there is, and I hope that we go back to doing fewer seasons because we are losing the novelty of beautifully constructive clothes, beautifully conceptualized clothes. Raf talked about how designers cannot think anymore because all they are doing is making, making, making, there is no time to sit and decide to change ideas or to make things differently. I think if we give designers more time we are going to see fashion progress like we used to, but it has been so similar lately because you do not have the luxury of time anymore. Yves Saint Laurent used to go on three-month vacations and come back with his ideas that really shook up fashion. I think if we give people the time to be inspired by the world and to explore that they will come back with things that we would not have ever thought of. In my ideal world we just go back to two seasons. I would love to see fall/winter, spring/summer and that is what people do. We value excess and we value the now and I think our generation is going to want to go to this minimal living where you have these beautiful things. You see the hand, you see the craft in them and you are willing to buy that one dress that you wear most of the spring rather than buying 20 of them that were 20 dollars each. I think that it changes the way you see your own lifestyle and maybe will put some other things in priority rather than the new.